About
UdIni
Udo Neumann is one of the climbing world's most highly respected and sought after Biomechanics, Skill Acquisition, & Motor Control Experts.
“Udo Neumann IS bouldering. If all things related to bouldering counted as first ascents—films, books, photography, mixed media—Udo Neumann might just be the most prolific boulderer in history. Since 1982, when he began climbing, Neumann has been cranking out media at a feverish pace, not just documenting the sport, but altering the very way we’ve understand the act of bouldering.
Udo Neumann was there in the beginning. He co-authored the sports most successful training book, the now classic but still relevant Performance Rock Climbing (1993), which brought professional sportsscience theory into a sport where climbers were primarily pumping out on Bachar ladders and doing pull-ups on fingerboards. The book introduced climbers to training strategies we take for granted today.” RockandIce (USA) July 2014
Features
„Olympic climbers are learning from monkeys“
„Understanding Modern Bouldering -“
„From arboreal locomotion of terrestrial tetrapods to rock climbing in humans“
„Trainiere lieber ungewöhnlich“
„Der Analytiker“
„Climbing Prophet of the time“
Udini Milestones
⤷2024
Workshops and seminars in Dublin Ireland for the Irish Climbing Federation.
⤷2024
I LOVE COACHING!
⤷2024
I LOVE COACHING!
⤷2024
10-day camp for Bergen Klatreklubb, Norway.
⤷2024
Movement Catalogue for a climbing movement master class.
⤷2023
30 years of Performance Rock Climbing.
⤷2023
Coaching Team Hongkong at the 2023 Climbing World Cups.
⤷2023
Coaching Team Hongkong at the 2023 Climbing World Cups.
⤷2023
Coaching Team Hongkong at the 2023 Climbing World Cups.
⤷2023
Coaching Team Hongkong at the 2023 Climbing World Cups.
⤷2023
Workshop and seminar at Minimum, Zurich.
⤷2023
Jacky Godoffe’s RIC-scale is helpful for the constraints-led approach.
⤷2023
Coaches education for TOC Limburg.
⤷2023
Coaches education for TOC Limburg.
⤷2023
Impressed by the rock climbing skills of Olympian Sam Avezou.
⤷2023
Great workshops and seminars at with the Spanish Team Sputnik.
⤷2023
Great workshops and seminars at with the Spanish Team Sputnik.
⤷2023
Great workshops and seminars at with the Spanish Team Sputnik.
⤷2023
Regionalzentren übergreifende Fortbildung für Trainer:innen in Basel, CH.
⤷2023
Motor learning seminars for the IFSC’s World Climbing Academy in Krakow, Poland.
⤷2023
Playing with the finals problems of the Brixen Boulder World Cup.
⤷2023
Re-uniting with USA Climbing coach Alvaro Rangel at the Brixen Boulder World Cup 2023.
⤷2022
Workshops and seminars at PxP Thessaloniki (Greece).
⤷2022
Climbing at one of the last major areas on the bucket list, Meteora.
⤷2022
Bouldering with former athlete Jule Wurm and Greek hopeful Eva Kalli.
⤷2022
As terrible as the war in Ukraine is – I learned to know the fabulous Ksenia Zakharowa.
⤷2022
With former athlete Jule Wurm and Team Greece at the European Championships, Munich.
⤷2022
Camp in Kaunas / Lithuania.
⤷2022
„Kunst und Wissenschaft des Boulderns“ Workshop & Vortrag von Udo Neumann, dem „Vater des modernen Boulderns“.
⤷2022
Workshops and seminars at PxP Thessaloniki (Greece).
⤷2022
Workshops and seminars at Vertical Volos (Greece).
⤷2022
Another cool training camp with Alex Wydler training (CH).
⤷2022
The RIC Scale as an umbrella concept for climbing practice. Workshop in Barcelona (Spain).
⤷2021
Spanish version of Klettertraining book – Fuerza, movilidad y control para escaladores, bloqueros, ninjas, artistas y otras profesiones tácticas.
⤷2021
Olympic climbers are learning from monkeys with Natalie Berry for WIRED magazine.
⤷2021
Climbing Practice design for injury prevention, online seminar at the Segundo Simpósio Internacional de Saúde do Escalado (Brazil).
⤷2021
Climbing Performance Coaching online courses.
⤷2021
How to become a better climber (while in lockdown) – online workshops for ABBEE (Brazil).
⤷2021
Online seminars for CHKMCU (Hong Kong).
⤷2021
Climbing Practice design for injury prevention, online seminar at the Segundo Simpósio Internacional de Saúde do Escalado (Brazil).
⤷2021
The Climbing Talent Development Show on YouTube.
⤷2020
I STILL LOVE CLIMBING!
⤷2020
Feedback for Climbing Technique of the 21st Century.
⤷2020
Movement seminar for Escalada et Mas (Peru).
⤷2020
„Ideas to improve your climbing“, three part course series.
⤷2019
Video „Ideas to improve your climbing“, Consulting for Club Alpine Belge and their „Be Gold“ program.
Innovative warm-up practice for enhancing climbing performance
⤷2018
Presenting with the late David Lama at the World Championships, Innsbruck 2018, RIP David!
⤷2018
Coaching seminars and workshops world wide, starting January in Canada, than Peru, Croatia, Belgium, Latvia, USA and many more.
Consulting for Innsbruck 2018 climbing world championships.
Video analyses is always a part of udini's coaching
⤷2018
Coaching seminars and workshops world wide, starting January in Canada, than Peru, Croatia, Belgium, Latvia, USA and many more.
Consulting for Innsbruck 2018 climbing world championships.
Workshops and presentations all over the world
⤷2018
Coaching seminars and workshops world wide, starting January in Canada, than Peru, Croatia, Belgium, Latvia, USA and many more.
Consulting for Innsbruck 2018 climbing world championships.
“Factors deciding climbing competitions” for Innsbruck 2018
⤷2018
Coaching seminars and workshops world wide, starting January in Canada, than Peru, Croatia, Belgium, Latvia, USA and many more.
Consulting for Innsbruck 2018 climbing world championships.
Camp with route-setter Robert Lux at Bloc Shop, Montreal, Canada
⤷2018
Coaching seminars and workshops world wide, starting January in Canada, than Peru, Croatia, Belgium, Latvia, USA and many more.
Consulting for Innsbruck 2018 climbing world championships.
Consalting the Belgian “Be Gold“ climbing program
⤷2017
Climbing Talent at the 2017 Youth Camp, London
⤷2017
Jan Hojer European Champion for the 2nd time. Stop working for the German DAV because …
Video „Climbing Technique of the year 21st century“ published.
Climbing Technique of the 21st Century
⤷2017
Jan Hojer European Champion for the 2nd time. Stop working for the German DAV because …
Video „Climbing Technique of the year 21st century“ published.
Der Bewegungsprofessor geht
⤷2016
Climbing Coaches Symposium, Manchester 2016
⤷2016
With UK-climbing legend Johnny Dawes in England’s Peak District.
⤷2016
New book „Klettertraining“ published.
Bouldering in Portugal
⤷2015
Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer become European bouldering champions in Innsbruck.
Later this year coaching clinic in Atlanta/USA
Coach of the successful German Boulder Team with Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm European Champions!
⤷2014
Published ebook „the Art and Science of Bouldering“ – life stays exciting...
My athlete Jan Hojer wins overall bouldering world cup and later this year Juliane Wurm becomes bouldering world champion
The Art and Science of Bouldering e-book
⤷2014
Published ebook „the Art and Science of Bouldering“ – life stays exciting...
My athlete Jan Hojer wins overall bouldering world cup and later this year Juliane Wurm becomes bouldering world champion
Juliane Wurm becomes bouldering World Champion, 2014, Munich
⤷2014
Published ebook „the Art and Science of Bouldering“ – life stays exciting...
My athlete Jan Hojer wins overall bouldering world cup and later this year Juliane Wurm becomes bouldering world champion
With Jule Wurm at the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2014, Munich
⤷2013
Another exciting Boulder World Cup season with the victory of my athletes Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm as a highlight.
Intense working on „the Art and Science of Bouldering“ ebook.
Boulder World Cup 2013 report – Innsbruck, Austria
⤷2013
Intense Boulder World Cup season.
Bouldering trips to France’s Brittany and Spain’s Santa Gadea among others
50th birthday with Akiyo Noguchi and Yuka Kobayashi – nice!
⤷2012
Coaching at the 2012 Climbing World Championships
⤷2012
Intense Boulder World Cup season.
Bouldering trips to France’s Brittany and Spain’s Santa Gadea among others
Jan Hojer training
⤷2012
Intense Boulder World Cup season.
Bouldering trips to France’s Brittany and Spain’s Santa Gadea among others
Bouldering World Cup 2012, Chongqing
⤷2011
One month trip to Indonesia’s Sumatra to film Orang Utans in their natural habitat.
My athlete Jule Wurm third place at the Bouldering World Championships in Arco.
Bouldering in Santa Gadea, Spain
⤷2010
„Lizenz zum Bouldern“, instand success, tremendous reviews.
German coach for IFSC Boulder World Cups with 7 locations world wide. My athlete Jule Wurm second at European Championships in Innsbruck.
Produced 7 „Boulder WC 2010 reports“, published on youtube. New totally overhauled edition of „Lizenz zum Klettern“.
The Boulder World Cup reports are famous for their informative split screens comparisons
⤷2010
„Lizenz zum Bouldern“, instand success, tremendous reviews.
German coach for IFSC Boulder World Cups with 7 locations world wide. My athlete Jule Wurm second at European Championships in Innsbruck.
Produced 7 „Boulder WC 2010 reports“, published on youtube. New totally overhauled edition of „Lizenz zum Klettern“.
Lizenz zum Klettern
⤷2009
Trip to Bali, Indonesia for surfing and climbing. Workshop and presentation for local „Gibbon Climbing Club“.
Started working on „Lizenz zum Bouldern“ bouldering book with trips to Austria, CZ, France etc.
Organization of international boulder contest „Bronx Rock Invitational 2009, this time it’s personal“.
Started working as Head Coach Bouldering for the German Alpine Club.
Gabi Kurth bouldering on sea cliffs in Bali
⤷2009
Trip to Bali, Indonesia for surfing and climbing. Workshop and presentation for local „Gibbon Climbing Club“.
Started working on „Lizenz zum Bouldern“ bouldering book with trips to Austria, CZ, France etc.
Organization of international boulder contest „Bronx Rock Invitational 2009, this time it’s personal“.
Started working as Head Coach Bouldering for the German Alpine Club.
Workshop for Gibbon Climbing Club, Bali, Indonesia
⤷2009
Trip to Bali, Indonesia for surfing and climbing. Workshop and presentation for local „Gibbon Climbing Club“.
Started working on „Lizenz zum Bouldern“ bouldering book with trips to Austria, CZ, France etc.
Organization of international boulder contest „Bronx Rock Invitational 2009, this time it’s personal“.
Started working as Head Coach Bouldering for the German Alpine Club.
Lizenz zum Bouldern
⤷2008
Trip to Thailand, bouldering on the island „Koh Tao“, Organization of international boulder contest „Bronx Rock Invitational 2008, the future is female“.
Documentation of „BAZ!“ the word’s largest bouldering contest on artificial structures.
„Die 2te Lizenz zum Klettern DVD“
Bouldering on Koh Tao, Thailand
⤷2007
New completely overhauled edition of „Lizenz zum Klettern“ (V3!)
Two months in NZ, surfing and bouldering via Hong Kong and Australia!
Bouldering high above Hong Kong
⤷2007
New completely overhauled edition of „Lizenz zum Klettern“ (V3!)
Two months in NZ, surfing and bouldering via Hong Kong and Australia!
The Scorcerer’s Aprentice, Castle Hill, NZ
⤷2006
Two months in NZ, surfing and bouldering, Yosemite on the way!
Started working on film / multimedia / book project „Climbing Performance de:constructed“ that was finished end of 2007…
Bastard, Castle Hill, NZ
⤷2005
Two months in NZ, surfing and bouldering, bouldering in Joshua Tree on the way, workshops and presentations in NZ, Iceland and Germany.
New english film „psicobloc 101“ about deep water soloing, starring Chris Sharma and Toni Lamprecht among others.
Bouldering in Fontainebleau
⤷2005
Two months in NZ, surfing and bouldering, bouldering in Joshua Tree on the way, workshops and presentations in NZ, Iceland and Germany.
New english film „psicobloc 101“ about deep water soloing, starring Chris Sharma and Toni Lamprecht among others.
Bouldering at France’s Brittany
⤷2005
Published ebook „the Art and Science of Bouldering“ – life stays exciting...
My athlete Jan Hojer wins overall bouldering world cup and later this year Juliane Wurm becomes bouldering world champion
Psicobloc (deep water soloing) with Chris Sharma
⤷2004
Climbing and bouldering trips to the USA and Turkey.
Got more into photography again, publications in major climbing and outdoor magazines.
Started film „VerdonVertigo“ about the biggest Canyon in Europe. Still working on it...
Lizenz zum Klettern DVD
⤷2004
Climbing and bouldering trips to the USA and Turkey.
Got more into photography again, publications in major climbing and outdoor magazines.
Started film „VerdonVertigo“ about the biggest Canyon in Europe. Still working on it...
Udo Neumann making the „Acid Test“, New Zealand
⤷2002
Route-setting the world’s first skating move
⤷2001
Shoulder injury from bouldering, needed surgery for the first time in my life. New, completely re-worked edition of „Lizenz zum Klettern“.
Routesetting for national boulder comp. Interviewed by KLETTERN.
Bunker bouldering
⤷2000
Moved to Austria south of Salzburg to a mountain hut to write book with Klem. Started film „Climbing at the limit of human performance“ about writing the book.
Lots of presentations that year. Got into freestyle kayaking. Moved back to Cologne at the end of the year.
Der XI. Grad - Climbing at the limit of human performance with Klem Loskot
⤷1999
New edition of Performance Rock Climbing in Japanese
⤷1999
Made plans to write book „Der XI. Grad“ with Klem Loskot. Two months in western USA and Mexico.
Edited extrem kayaking film „Sickline“.
Klem Loskot, first ascent of „Zero G“, Germany
⤷1998
Trip to South Africa with Klem and some other friends. Surfed Jeffrey’s Bay! Finished video „Evolution/Revolution“.
Almost drowned surfing in France. Edited extrem kayaking film „boof chicken boof“ for filmmaker Olaf Obsommer.
Got interested in kayaking again.
With Jibé Tribout in the UK
⤷1998
Trip to South Africa with Klem and some other friends. Surfed Jeffrey’s Bay! Finished video „Evolution/Revolution“.
Almost drowned surfing in France. Edited extrem kayaking film „boof chicken boof“ for filmmaker Olaf Obsommer.
Got interested in kayaking again.
Filming the bouldering of South Africa’s Rocklands with Klem Loskot
⤷1996
Video „boulder!“ about – well – bouldering. Filmed in the US, France and Germany.
Starring among others Fred Nicole and Markus Bock. Edited by myself on an Apple Mac 7500!
With Fred Nicole in Switzerland
⤷1996
Video „boulder!“ about – well – bouldering. Filmed in the US, France and Germany.
Starring among others Fred Nicole and Markus Bock. Edited by myself on an Apple Mac 7500!
Filming Fred Nicole in Switzerland
⤷1995
started German climbing book „Lizenz zum Klettern“, layouting it myself on PC with 20 MB of RAM.
Moved to Forchheim/Frankenjura.
Werner Thon, FA of “Hulk”, Frankenjura
⤷1995
started German climbing book „Lizenz zum Klettern“, layouting it myself on PC with 20 MB of RAM.
Moved to Forchheim/Frankenjura.
Climbing Devils Tower, Wyoming, USA
⤷1993
„Performance Rock Climbing“ finally finished and published by Stackpole books!
Edited first film by the same name on a tape based system. Both instant successes.
Presentations and workshops in the US and Canada.
⤷1992
Two month trip to China. Urumtschi to Lanzhou per Bike. Climbed (buildered) on the Great wall of China...
⤷1992
Two month trip to China. Urumtschi to Lanzhou per Bike. Climbed (buildered) on the Great wall of China...
Lots of climbing, including first ascents up to 8a.
FA of "Hydra", Ettringen, Germany
⤷1991
Started writing „Performance Rock Climbing“ with Dale Goddard. Spent 5 months in the States. Onsight climbing up to 5.12c.
Photographed cover of „Outside“ magazine.
Dale Goddard, FA ascent of „Serves you right“, Hueco Tanks, Texas
⤷1991
Started writing „Performance Rock Climbing“ with Dale Goddard. Spent 5 months in the States. Onsight climbing up to 5.12c.
Photographed cover of „Outside“ magazine.
Writing “Performance Rock Climbing” with Dale Goddard in Hueco Tanks
⤷1990
Got MA in sport science. Master thesis „Determining factors of competition climbing“.
Smith Rocks (USA), "Chain Reaction"
⤷1989
Won regional climbing championships, made plans with Dale Goddard to write book.
After a performance with my fantastic circus kids
⤷1988
My Performing Arts past.
⤷1989
My piece EVOLUTION
⤷1989
My piece EVOLUTION
⤷1989
My piece EVOLUTION
⤷1987
More of all! Competed in „Climbing World Championships“ in Troubat / France.
Could have been worse, since used to competing. Some guys where just on much higher level climbing wise …
Fontainebleau, Le 13ème Travail d’Hercule 7a+
⤷1987
More of all! Competed in „Climbing World Championships“ in Troubat / France.
Could have been worse, since used to competing. Some guys where just on much higher level climbing wise …
Participating in one of the last climbing competitions on rock, Troubat
⤷1985
first trips „through the iron curtain“ to Saxony in the „German Democratic Republic“, the birthplace of modern sport climbing. Awesome routes on towers!
3 months in California and Mexico. Some Yosemite classics. Second or third ascent of Bikini Whale, 5.12b in Joshua Tree
Cocaine Corner, Yosemite
⤷1985
first trips „through the iron curtain“ to Saxony in the „German Democratic Republic“, the birthplace of modern sport climbing. Awesome routes on towers!
3 months in California and Mexico. Some Yosemite classics. Second or third ascent of Bikini Whale, 5.12b in Joshua Tree
FA of "Tausend Augen", a buildering route in downtown Cologne
⤷1984
First trip to the Verdon! Got inspired by Jerry Moffat and Wolfgang Güllich.
Met Dale Goddard on later trip to Verdon
Getting ready to shoot Wolfgang Güllich, Verdon
⤷1984
First trip to the Verdon! Got inspired by Jerry Moffat and Wolfgang Güllich.
Met Dale Goddard on later trip to Verdon
Getting ready to shoot Wolfgang Güllich, Verdon
⤷1983
First trip to the States, hitchhiked from New York to Boulder/Colorado, climbed lots of classics at Eldorado Canyon.
Bought car in Boulder, went to Yosemite, tried the Nose and Halfdome, almost killed ourselves numerous times...
Started studying biology. First trip to Bleau ... love on first sight!
Udo bouldering in Yosemite Valley
⤷1983
First trip to the States, hitchhiked from New York to Boulder/Colorado, climbed lots of classics at Eldorado Canyon.
Bought car in Boulder, went to Yosemite, tried the Nose and Halfdome, almost killed ourselves numerous times...
Started studying biology. First trip to Bleau ... love on first sight!
Udo bouldering in Yosemite Valley
⤷1982
Abitur. Started climbing with very basic equipment and knowledge hiked through Corsica. Started studying Sports Science at DSHS Cologne.
Udo buildering
⤷1969
When I was 6 years old.
Moon Landing
Klettertraining
This book will help you to prepare for your climbing goals. It shows you how to develop strength, flexibility and control efficiently and how to keep your body performing well into old age. If you are able to master the basics of training and practice the exercises described here, you will reach a level of strength, agility and control that is second to none in the world of athletes.
Sign up to Udini’s newsletter
We use the e-mail address you enter to send you our newsletter at regular intervals. If you change your mind and don't want to receive newsletters from us anymore, you will find an unsubscribe button in the footer of every mail. With this button you can delete your e-mail address from our mailing list. You can find further information on the subject of data protection in our privacy policy.