Systems Thinking in Climbing Performance Coaching
Systems thinking is a holistic approach that views performance not as a collection of individual parts but as a complex, dynamic, and interconnected system.
It focuses on understanding the relationships, feedback loops, and emergent behaviors that arise from the interactions between all elements within the athlete's environment.
In an ideal world, systems thinking should be running in the background of your coaching without sacrificing spontaneity within a session.
Why Jan Hojer didn't become boulder world champion
2014 – It was my job over the last five years to not let this happen. I’ve been looking into my crystal ball for any moves that could be possibly asked for. I probably know the setter’s characteristics better than them.
But now I realise that we have missed to practice this particular weakness of Jan – over-head presses with delicate feet.
Bugger!
Jan leads after three problems as expected, but struggles on M4. Adam and Kruder are both of can do it, whereas Jan can’t. Again, that’s on me.
The circle platform
Would I be in a similar position as a head coach of a climbing program nowadays, I would use a platform like Circle that the successful former athlete Jérôme Meyer currently is developing. The Circle platform has its roots in the preparations for the Tokyo Olympics. It was there that the idea emerged to create virtual climbing routes in an interactive 3D space, in order to better design, test, and share them. It allows for virtual setting as I’m doing here with a beta version of the platform.
Laban Movement Analysis (LMA)
LMA is a prominent system for analyzing and categorizing human movement. Developed by Rudolf Laban, a Hungarian choreographer and movement theorist, LMA provides a structured approach to understanding the qualitative and quantitative aspects of movement, making it applicable across various fields such as dance, theater, physical therapy, sports, and even robotics.
Wilber’s Four Quadrants model:
Ken Wilber’s Four Quadrants model is a framework within his Integral Theory that aims to describe the full spectrum of human experience and reality.
This model is intended to map out all the dimensions of existence and knowledge, integrating different perspectives into a cohesive whole.
Applying it to climbing coaching reveals that for instance route-setting isn't just a logistical task—it’s the central integrative practice that links all four quadrants.
Finally, conversation I recently had with Christopher Duncan, the creator of the KlimBeta platform. Please check it out and get in touch with Chris as he appreciates your feedback.
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