The mindset of chipping holds

In Bouldering by Udo Neumann

Some chippers are smarter than others though. DREAMTIME for example was „enhanced“ in a subtle way. You now can pull yourself in where Fred had to stay precisely below the sloping holds. DREAMTIME still went down from a proud 8c testpiece to a mere 8a+. COLLETERAL went down from Dave Graham’s hardest move to something he now can do in sneakers. The worst example I’m aware of though is Klem Loskot’s 0G. The original hold was so bad that you had to find that moment of zero gravity through a hyper complex deadpoint to hold it. Now that most tricky deadpoint is reduced to simple brainless dyno since you will be able to catch the hold regardless of how you arrive at it. Surely Klem can do it in sneakers now too. Good job, chipper! You’ve stolen one of the most interesting moves from the climbing community! Here you can see the „new“ hold. Not cool… 

On a nicer note, we added some pics (starting here ) while bouldering in the magic Fichtlgebirge last week. Enjoy!